Climbing the Philippine Peaks from a Newbie's Point-of-View

Major Climbs

Mt. Pulag: The Towering Queen of Luzon

Destination: Mt. Pulag (Ambangeg Trail a.k.a. The Executive Trail)
Elevation: 2,922 meters above sea level (2nd highest in the country)
Location: Bokod, Benguet
Time to Summit: 5-6 hours (in 2 days)
 
 
 
How did we get there?

Pasay City to Baguio City Map

Baguio City to Bokod Map

To go to Baguio City, we took a Baguio-bound Victory Liner bus at their Pasay City Terminal (Cubao Terminal can be an alternative). The bus departs every 30 minutes. We took the Friday 9:30 p.m. bus and arrived approximately 6 hours later. Being a workday, we took the time to catch some much needed sleep during the long ride. (Fare = P455.00)

Last Minute Preparations

We are scheduled to leave Baguio City for Bokod at around 4:30 a.m. – 5:00 am. (Saturday) via Monster Jeep. Since we arrived at around 3:30 a.m., we took the free time to buy essential supplies in the Baguio City Wet Market such as fresh meat/fish and vegetables. For breakfast, you have two options: The 24-hour Chowking at session road or at the eatery along the road to Bokod.

The Road to Bokod

The Eatery (approx. 2 hrs.)

The way to Mt. Pulag is a challenge on its own as the road zigzags sharply along the the mountain side. If you are prone to motion/car sickness, be sure to take Bonamine. It takes approximately 2 hours to reach the eatery, which is marked by a lone fire tree. There you can have your breakfast and buy lunch so you don’t have to cook anymore at the Protected Area Management Board (PAMB) Office or the Babadak Ranger Station. The menu usually includes pork, chicken and fish (tilapia mostly).

There is a toilet (outhouse) there… and its not a pretty sight.

The PAMB Office (approx. 1.5 hrs.)

The next stop will be the PAMB Office which will take about 1.5 hours from the eatery (the ascend will be marked by stomach churning rough roads). This is where you must register and attend a mandatory 15-minute breifing/orientation. The briefing/orientation will include a short film about Mt. Pulag and the rules and regulations of the mountain. It will be conducted by Emerita Tamira, the park superintendent. You may contact her +639196315402. During peak season, the PAMB office can be pretty crowded, so be sure to get there as early as possible, but on normal circumstances, you can go through the formalities within 30 minutes.

There is a bathroom there that you can use as an alternative to the bathroom available at the ranger station.

The Badabak Ranger Station
After 1.5 hours more of the stomach churning monster jeepney ride, you will arrive at the ranger station. There you can have your lunch, use the bathroom (clean and has freezing water) and hire guides/porters. The guide and porter system there is pretty organized so you don’t have to worry about securing their services. You can also leave things that you won’t need for the climb there, but it will be at your own risk. Also, if you forgot to bring gloves, scarves or some clothes, there is a souvenir shop at the at the far right side of the sari-sari (variety) store.

The rule is 1 guide for a maximum of 7 people. I don’t know the fee of the guide as we had an climb organizer (highly recommended to save you the trouble or hiring/coordinating on the spot). Porters can be hired for P250 (one way) and P500 (back and forth). Even small kids can be portered up the mountain too!

Be sure to make your last minute preparations at the ranger station. Below are my tips:

  1. Save your strength, hire a porter! You will not only help the locals, but you can focus on enjoying the sights and sounds.
  2. Light weight dri-fit clothes recommended. You will only need your jacket when it rains and when your at the campsite.
  3. Bring water (1-2 liters) and some snacks for energy – biscuits, candies and trailfoods such as mixed nuts.
  4. Apply sunblock – The air is thinner up there and you are closer to the sun
  5. Sunglasses – same reason above
  6. Bring a walking stick or a telescopic trekking pole
  7. Waterproof the stuff you brought with you
  8. Taking a five-minute break for every thirty-minute trek is a reasonable pace
  9. STRETCHING! STRETCHING! STRETCHING!

Part 1: The Vegetable Road/Pine Forest (approx. 1 hr.)

After having lunch at the ranger station, we made our final preparations and set off for the trail at around 11:30 a.m.. For the duration trek, you will encounter 3 kinds of terrain: a pine forest (sort of), mossy forest and grasslands. The trail in the pine forest is along the a rough jeepney road used by vegetable dealers. You can see a lot of vegetable farms, irrigation pipes, ferns and pine trees in this part of the trek. There is no tree coverage, so it can get pretty hot.

Entering the next part of the trail

 
Part 2: The Mossy Forest (approx. 3 hrs.)
 

Once you see the rough road end at the treeline, then you are now entering the mossy forest. The transition between the two terrains are quite unwelcoming for a newbie. Upon entering the treeline, climbers are greeted by a 50 -70 degrees slope, which you must ascend for 10 mins… on a decent pace. If you failed to stretch, then this part will make your thighs scream! This part can get slippery and muddy, so be careful. Its advisable that the distance between two climbers be kept at a decent interval for safety reasons. After this part, the trek becomes gentler.

After the short, but steep ascend, the terrain gets kinder. From this point forward, the mountain trail offers a generous helping of ascends and descends. And the views of the flora, and if you’re lucky maybe fauna too, will astound any first-timer. As you go deeper into the forest, you will find yourself entering an ancient forest, and in some areas, you can’t help but think that it looks like the jungles of Pandora (Avatar film). Old trees and ferns abound, some of them looks alien or outlandish. Might be worth taking a picture of.

The trail is in good condition. No need to do spiderman crawls or hanging-on-to-dear-life moves. No river crossings too, so you can wear shoes all through out the trek. Campsite 1 is approximately an hour deep in the mossy forest. There, you can take a rest at the hut and/or take a bathroom break at the… bathroom, so no need to step behind the bush and do no. 1 and 2 in Mt. Pulag. If you notice another steep ascend, then campsite 1 is waiting for you in the other end. there is a spring along the trail too. It is potable, but its not always available.

Don’t underestimate this part of the climb. Its very exhausting and humid. The good thing though is that there are no bugs, snakes or any creatures you wouldn’t like to encounter.

Entering grasslands

 
Part 3: Grasslands/Campsite 2 (approx. 15 mins.)
 

A very welcoming sight when you reach the treeline is the infinite blue sky (if its not cloudy), the cool wind and the dwarf bamboo that carpets the summit area. A little climb up a bluff will lead you campsite 2, up another bluff is the campsite 2 extension. We decided to camp at the extension site. The view is much better there and its not cramp. One of the views that will catch your attention there is the telecom antennae and the outhouse. From the campsite, you will see a cluster of trees, the spring is there where you can get potable water. We picked out spot and began setting-up the camp at around 4:00 p.m..

At campsite 2, we found ourselves resting below the infinite blue sky. Cloud cover was light and the sun is high. It was hot there, by the way, so sun protection is a must. While our guides were pitching the tents, our climbing team decided to wander around the rolling hills of the campsite. The sights were to die for! There are various hills there that you can climb. There is a cell site there too, so network coverage there is strong.

At around 5:00 p.m., we noticed the weather getting cooler and the winds getting stronger. When we looked at the horizon, we saw a wall of fog approaching – a sign of bad weather. We found out later that the tropical depression in the Visayas region, became Typhoon Bebeng! But that didn’t bother us as we know that its still far away. The mountain ranges of the Cordilleras, by the way, can have various micro weather systems, so it can rain/drizzle in one part and sunny in the other… We got the former later in the evening! It was amazing how fast the weather changes up there.

We had our dinner at around 6:00 p.m., the winds are still getting stronger and colder. I made the mistake of not bringing gloves and a scarf! (Don’t fall short on things that can keep you dry and warm up there.) After dinner, we picked out our tents (the guides provided the tents). Unluckily, we got the tent with a damaged rain fly (the peep hole had a… hole). Being so, the cold wind and mist can enter our tent. Lights out was supposed to be at 9:00 p.m., but our group decided to hit the sack early because we only had an uncomfortable sleep in the bus. So at around 8:00 p.m., it was lights out for us.

Earlier in the evening, the gust of the wind and the murmur of other climbers rocked us to sleep. It was deeper into the night that was very uncomfortable. The winds are getting stronger and stronger. Each time the wind blew, our tent rocked as if something is hitting it. But there was no rain, thank God. It was very cold, noisy and uncomfortable. It was a miracle we had any sleep at all.

At around 1 a.m., we heard someone calling out our name from outside of the tent. Our guide, knowing that our tent damaged, offered his tent to us and ended up sharing a tent with our other guide. (Maybe he heard that we were complaining about the cold.) We immediately took the offer and made our way through the thick fog to our new tent, which was smaller but warmer.

Part 4: The Summit Assault (approx. 1.5 hrs.)

Our original plan to summit was around 3:30 a.m. so that we can catch the sunrise. Since there was no sun to catch due to the heavy cloud cover, we decided to start the assault at 5:00 a.m. I woke at at around 4:30 a.m., shivering in the cold and our tent slighly wet from the mist. I felt feverish that morning, and I thought of not joining the assault. But our guide and my tentmate talked me to pushing through with the assault – and I did. It would be a waste if I didn’t. We had our heavy breakfast and started the assault at around 5:00 a.m. into the bone chilling fog.

The trail to the summit is quite narrow in some parts and steep. The morning dew and drizzle made the trail muddy and slippery too. The assault was a combination of rolling hills, cliff-side trails and sheer mountain face. The trail was hard enough and it was made harder by the creeping chill brought about by the strong winds especially in the valleys. I really regret not bring gloves and a scarf with me. My hand was so pale and almost numb from the cold, but Elorde, our local mountain guide, stood by me and helped me keep the pace.

But in spite of all the hardships, the view was very spectacular. The vast grassy rolling hills reminded me of Rohan (Lord of the Rings). At one point, I was so tired that I was moving on sheer willpower alone. All I thought about was to get one foot in front of the other and trudge on. It was a cold, long, seemingly never ending journey. An hour or so later, the summit was visible.

The winds at the summit were violent. The thick fog covered the edges of the summit. One wrong step, and one can fall a tumbling death. The summit is quite small actually. I think it can only fit 25 – 30 people at one time. Up there, you can see bigger dwarf bamboo bushes, which the local guides cleverly used as a shield from the wind. The strength and the windchill of the the gusts up there are much worse, since there are no more terrain or foliage to block them. We took victory pictures at the summit. Our prize was a strong sense of accomplishment and a freshly made warm cup of coffee, courtesy of our Team Leader.

This photo was published in our company’s magazine

 
 
Part 5: The Descend (approx. 3.5 hrs.)

Summit to Campsite 2 (approx. 1 hr.)

After a few photos at the fog-covered summit and a warm cup of coffee, we started our descend back to the campsite. It was such as relief because my hands were so numb because of the cold winds at the summit. The weather condition was no different on our descend as it was during out assault. We arrived at the campsite at around 9:00. We rested for a while as the guides were decamping and packing the community items. After a while, it began to rain. The bone chilling cold was made worse by the pouring rain. Maybe our guide noticed it, so he told the local guides to let us start the descend, while they finish decamping.
 
Campsite 2 to the Ranger Station (approx. 2.5 hrs.)

The rain began to pour harder as we made our way across the grasslands and into the mossy forest. The trail was wet, muddy and slippery, but it wasn’t so hard to trek through it downhill. We also encountered “traffic” along the way from ascending porters and other descending groups. (Be courteous to everyone you encounter on the trail. Greet them with a warm smile for courtesy.) After a while, the rain waned into a drizzle. Two hours later (with a couple of rest stops), we are back at the ranger station. There, we cooked our tuna pesto lunch at the house beside the ranger station. You can take a bath at the ranger station, but please be warned – THE WATER IS FREEZING COLD. At around 1:30 p.m., we boarded the monster jeep back to Baguio City.

Ranger Station to Baguio City (approx. 4.5 hrs.)

DON’T FORGET TO LOG-OUT AT THE PAMB OFFICE. Although we did not stop by the PAMB office anymore, because our guide ask his friend who was guiding another group to log us out together with his team.

To be honest, the ride down the mountain was the worst part of the trip. You literally have to hang-on to dear life as the rough road and steep descend will throw passengers and bags around. I suggest you sit at the inner part of the monster jeep beside the bags so that you can lie down and save the trouble of holding on. But don’t sleep. You might find yourself with a lump on your head or a bloody nose when you wake-up. But it will over as soon as you hit the paved mountain side roads around near Ambuklao Lake. We arrived at the Victory Liner terminal in Baguio City at around 6:30 p.m.

THE EXPERIENCE
 

Being my first major climb, I didn’t know what to expect… The usual newbie’s excitement and enthusiasm was there, but reality will soon catch up. The first hour of the climb was bearable because of the scenery. But deeper into the trail, one will start to feel fatigue and shortness of breath due to the thin air. I am not physically fit or sporty, so I succumbed to it first.

I was the slowest in the group. Good thing our sweeper (the guide who keeps the pace of the group from behind) and the local guide was patient with me. They told me that this is not a race and I should climb at my own pace. So I did. While the rest of the group was taking a 5/30 min. break, I took a 2/15 min. break instead. That pacing worked for me as I would prefer to be slow than to hurt my self or collapse under pressure – This is a prudent measure, IMO. Like the PAMB superintended said, “Dapat realistic. Pag di kaya, relax muna. Di pwedeng go lang ng go. Its better to be relaxed than to get hurt.” (You should be realistic. If you find it hard, relax for a moment. Its not right to push beyond your limit always…)

There were times when I hated the trip, especially when it was so cold that I wished the trip was over. But one can’t quit up there just like that. You have to keep moving or else you become a burden to the group. Though I complained to myself, I never complained to the group. I just sucked it up and kept moving.

The best reward of the trip was the feeling of accomplishment. Sure the view was beautiful, the people were great and reaching the summit was awesome. But nothing compares to that temporary feeling of invulnerability knowing that you conquered the elements and especially yourself. Who would have thought that a 230 pounder like me can make it?

After the trip, I felt nostalgic asap. I longed to feel that feeling again. The feeling of accomplishment and immersing in the spirit of challenge. So I decided to make mountaineering as my hobby. I will make it a point to climb 1 mountain every month starting with day hikes near Manila. I will also try to better my body so that later on, I can try more difficult climbs. I will also make it a point to get a Basic Mountaineering Course and eventually join a club. This blog will serve as my diary to fulfill that quest.

OUR ITINERARY
 

Day 0 (Friday)  
9:00 p.m. Rendezvous at Victory Liner Pasay Terminal (We bought tickets in advance)
9:30 p.m. ETD. Board Baguio-bound Victory Liner bus
Day 1 (Saturday)  
3:30 a.m. ETA Victory Liner Baguio terminal
5:00 a.m. Board monster jeepney bound for Bokod (pre-arranged by guides)
7:00 a.m. Arrive at roadside eatery (Toilets/Outhouse available)
9:00 a.m. Arrive at PAMB Office. Registration and orientation.
11:00 a.m. Arrive at ranger station. Organize climp party.
11:30 a.m. Start trek
1:00 p.m. Arrive at campsite 1 (toilet available)
3:30 p.m. Arrive at the grasslands/campsite 2
4:00 p.m. Rest or explore the grasslands while guides set-up camp
6:00 p.m. Dinner and socials
9:00 p.m. Lights-out
Day 2 (Sunday)  
4:30 a.m. Wake-up/Stretch/Suit-up/Breakfast
5:00 a.m. Start summit assualt
6:30 a.m. Reach summit (No sunrise due to bad weather)
7:00 a.m. Start descend to campsite 2
8:30 a.m. Arrive at campsite 2. Rest and decamp.
9:30 a.m. Start descend to ranger station
12:00 a.m. Arrive at ranger station. Clean-up and eat lunch.
1:30 p.m. Board monster jeep back to Baguio City
6:00 p.m. Arrive at Victory Liner Baguio terminal
8:30 p.m. Board Manila-bound Victory Liner bus (we were chance passengers since all the evening schedules we fully booked)

 
BUDGET

P4,500.00 – P5,000.00 – Inclusive of camp meals, tent rentals, guides, porters and bus ticket. Full service guide at the campsite. No more cleaning up after yourself.

5-7-11: THE DAY I CONQUERED MT. PULAG